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Lello (LEH-loo) is a feast for the eyes — and for the mind. Open since 1906, it is one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. It is also one of the best bookstores in Porto and the flagship store for one of the most important Portuguese publishing houses. Co-owner Antero Braga is usually around, knows the Portuguese book market in and out, and will be glad to help you find exactly what you want even when you don’t have a clue about what that may be.

But Lello is much more than a your run-of-the-mill bookstore. Its turn of the century architecture — by Xavier Esteves — is outstanding. On the outside, the facade is an excellent example of neo-gothic design. Don’t miss the two painted figures representing Art and Science. Once inside, the curvaceous red stairway connecting the two levels (inspired on the Parisian Galleries Lafayette), the heavily decorated walls and ceilings, and the magnificent stained-glass skylight with Lello’s motto vecus in labore will no doubt impress you. The pillars are ornamented with bronze bas-reliefs of Portuguese literature figures and there is a small track on the floor along which employees move carts filled with books. All in all, Lello is one of the best works of the so-called “second eclecticism” style in Portugal, with beautiful art nouveau naturalist elements.

One of the best-kept secrets in Porto is the four-table coffeeshop on the second floor of Lello – there’s coffee, port, and cigars. It’s the perfect place to stop for a moment before returning to the bustling downtown life outside; or to spend a long time browsing a few books.

Besides the wide array of Portuguese fiction and non-fiction titles, Lello sells many English and French books, including translations of Portuguese literature and poetry works. If you’re looking for books on Porto, Lello has the widest choice. (For a broader range of books, check out the Fnac chain bookstores. There is one on the corner of Rua Sta. Catarina with Rua Passos Manuel in downtown Porto and another one in the Norte Shopping shopping center in Matosinhos.)

Address: Rua das Carmelitas 144, Porto.

Phone: (+351) 22.200.2037.

Website: unavailable.

Opening hours: open Monday through Friday from 9:30am till 7:00pm, and Saturday from 9:30am till 1:00pm.

Getting there: Lello is a five-minute walk from downtown Porto. If you are at the bottom of Praca da Liberdade / Avenida dos Aliados (the two together form the large square in front of City Hall) facing City Hall, turn left and start climbing the street (Rua dos Clerigos) heading towards Clerigos tower. Right before the tower, the street splits into a narrow street to the left of the tower and a broader one to its right. Take this broader street (Rua das Carmelitas) and continue going up, past the tower on your left, heading to Praca dos Leoes — where you’ll see a fountain with lions. Lello is on your right just before you reach the square, at the top of Rua das Carmelitas. If you’re driving, the closest parking lot is the underground parking facility on Pc. dos Leoes, so drive past the bookstore and follow the parking signs when you reach the top of the street.

For a wonderful Quicktime VR panoramic image of Lello, click on the image at the top of this review. The link will take you to 360 Portugal, a comprehensive archive of panoramic images of Portugal. As always, many thanks to Santiago Ribas, the man behind the camera.