Majestic (coffeeshop / restaurant) February 27
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Legend has it that this was the place where J.K. Rowling, who lived in Porto between 1990 and 1993, drafted the first Harry Potter book. (Don’t believe it? Read Sean Smith’s J.K. Rowling: A Biography.)
Majestic (ma-JES-tic) — like Florian in Venice or Le Train Bleu in Paris — is one of the world’s greatest coffeeshops. Its magnificent art deco design remains intact, transporting you back in time. Though it tends to attract lots of tourists, enough locals go there to make it feel real.
Originally named Elite, Majestic opened its doors on December 1921. After initial success but a lack of name recognition, it quickly changed its name to Majestic the following year. Majestic is located in Rua de Sta. Catarina, the main commercial street in downtown Porto. Like Guarany (which now belongs to the same owners) in the 1930s, Majestic was the center of Porto’s life in the roaring twenties. From the first day, Majestic’s ornate design — by architect Joao Queiroz — attracted intellectuals, politicians, artists, and businessmen. With time, Majestic developed a clientele of writers, and several important figures of Portuguese twentieth-century literature were regulars there. After a period of decay, Majestic closed in 1964.
It only opened again in 1994, after an 11-year gut rehab that restored it to its original condition. The main room walls are covered in green Indian marble, also used in the decorative pillars with gilded Corinthian capitals. The ornate pink and cream plastered ceilings were totally reconditioned. The original crystal mirrors from Antwerp were kept, as were the crystal chandeliers, the marble-top tables, and the leather-cushioned chairs and couches with marble incrustations. The old European design wall-lamps illuminate sculptured cherubs smiling down on the patrons. The basement, which once lodged pool tables, now features art exhibitions. A lovely winter garden in the back provides additional opportunities for relaxation if you tire of the people-watching in the main room. The piano is often playing early twentieth century compositions adding to the belle epoque feel of the place.
Most people go to Majestic for a coffee or tea. Breakfast is a good option, with Portuguese-style (chewy rather than puff-like) croissants, natural juices, etc. Another option is a midday stop for a drink and a Portuguese dessert, like rabanadas (a more elaborate French-toast style sweet typical for Christmas) or ovos moles (literally soft eggs, a paste made of sugar and egg yolks, with a little port to provide extra aroma). But we recommend going to Majestic for lunch. They have several good option, such as the bacalhau a moda do Porto (codfish Porto’s way, breaded and fried in olive oil and garlic, served over creamed spinach with a sauce made with eggs with a bit of the olive oil where the fish fried), or a perfumed duck magret. Their francesinha (a hot sandwich you can only find in Porto, filled with encased meats, a bit of steak, covered with melted cheese, and with a tomato-and-beer based hot sauce poured on top), though not the best in town is pretty darn good. The wine list includes great Portuguese wines, especially from the Douro region. The port selection is also very good.
Service is professional and courteous.
Price point: coffee and other drinks 1.5 euros and up; lunch and other light meals between 12 and 20 euros.
Address: Rua Sta. Catarina 112, Porto.
Website: http://www.cafemajestic.com/
Opening hours: open daily from 9:30am till 12:00am.
Reservations: not needed; call (+351) 22.200.3887.
Getting there: you can easily walk to Majestic from downtown Porto. If you are at the bottom of Praca da Liberdade / Avenida dos Aliados (the two together form the large square in front of City Hall) facing City Hall, with Clerigos tower to your left, turn right and go up Rua 31 de Janeiro, until Praca da Batalha (it’s a steep street, and you can see a blue-tiled church at the top). When you get there, turn left to Rua de Sta. Catarina. Majestic is on the second block on your right side, just past Rua Passos Manuel. There’s no point in driving there, as the street is pedestrians-only. There are plenty of paid parking lots in the vicinity.
For a wonderful Quicktime VR panoramic image of Majestic, click on the image at the top of this review. The link will take you to 360 Portugal, a comprehensive archive of panoramic images of Portugal. As always, many thanks to Santiago Ribas, the man behind the camera.